Where else could you see authentic Fabergé jewellery, hear live Russian music, and uncover the secrets of precious stones if not at Bentley & Skinner, nestled in the heart of London? Organised by entrepreneur, writer, chef, and etiquette coach Lucy Varnava, this evening was a perfect blend of luxury, intimacy, and refined taste.
A Legacy of Excellence
The jewellery brand Bentley & Skinner has long been regarded as a guardian of the finest traditions in high jewellery. Its history dates back to the 19th century when Ilya Schlunde established a jewellery business in Vilnius, then part of the Russian Empire. His son, Leon Schlunde, played a significant role in shaping the company’s history, combining his passion for jewellery with scientific and political pursuits.
In his youth, Leon lived in Moscow, where he became involved with revolutionary circles and personally knew Vladimir Lenin and Rosa Luxemburg. Later, he moved to France and befriended Marie Curie, who gifted him a sample of radium — one of the rarest elements at the time.
Leon’s career took him from Siberian gold mines to South Africa, where he sent samples of uranium ore to Marie Curie, contributing to groundbreaking discoveries in radioactivity. After relocating to London, he established a company specialising in refining precious metals. His son, John Sheldon (Johann Schlunde), continued the family legacy, eventually acquiring Bentley & Co., which later merged with A. E. Skinner & Co.
Bentley & Skinner’s connection to Russian jewellery heritage extends beyond its founders. The company has worked with major auction houses to acquire and sell Russian jewellery, including masterpieces by Carl Fabergé. Many Fabergé pieces that passed through Bentley & Skinner later became part of prestigious collections, including the Fabergé Museum in St. Petersburg.
Over the years, Bentley & Skinner has served numerous royals and aristocrats. In the 19th century, A. E. Skinner & Co. crafted jewellery for the King of Spain and created an opulent gold casket for Kaiser Wilhelm II. By the 20th century, Bentley & Skinner had gained particular favour among the British aristocracy and was granted the Royal Warrant as a jeweller to King Edward VII, later receiving the same honour from Queen Elizabeth II and King Charles III.
One of Bentley & Skinner’s most intricate and renowned commissions was the creation of Damien Hirst’s diamond-encrusted skull, For the Love of God, in 2007. The artwork is a platinum cast of an 18th-century human skull, set with 8,601 flawless diamonds and real teeth. The skull’s production cost £12 million.
Today, Bentley & Skinner continues to uphold the traditions of fine jewellery-making, offering clients exceptional antique pieces, including rare works of the Russian school — such as Fabergé creations — as well as custom-designed masterpieces.
An Evening of Gems, Art, and History
The evening in London began with a concise yet captivating lecture on precious stones. A gemmology expert discussed the mining, cutting, and evaluation processes of gemstones, showcasing various techniques used in Bentley & Skinner’s collection. The talk soon evolved into a lively discussion when one attendee raised the topic of synthetic diamonds and their role in the modern jewellery industry, highlighting the ongoing relevance of authenticity and uniqueness in fine jewellery. Guests also had the opportunity to meet Bentley & Skinner’s master jewellers — the artisans whose skilled hands continue the legacy of British jewellery craftsmanship.
However, the evening was not just about gemstones and jewellery but also about art in its broader sense. After all, it was creativity that initially sparked the friendship between event organiser Lucy Varnava and Bentley & Skinner’s director, Mark Evans. Their serendipitous meeting took place in front of a painting by the French Rococo artist Jean-Honoré Fragonard at the Wallace Collection — an artist both deeply admire. Mark, captivated by Lucy’s style, remarked that she was the most elegant woman at the exhibition. A conversation followed, leading to a lasting friendship.
To conclude the evening, guests had the unique opportunity to not only ask questions but also physically engage with the history of Bentley & Skinner’s treasures. Tiaras, necklaces, and bracelets — some worth hundreds of thousands of pounds — were passed from hand to hand, inspiring awe and admiration. Attendees were even invited to try on rare pieces, allowing them to experience firsthand the glamour of bygone eras.
A Timeless Experience
After the formal part of the evening, we had the chance to ask Mark Evans a few questions.
Mr. Evans, Bentley & Skinner has built a reputation for exceptional craftsmanship. Can you walk us through the process behind creating a bespoke piece? What is the most exciting challenge you face when designing jewellery for discerning clients?
The creation and manufacture of jewellery is a highly skilled craft which can involve many techniques and aspects, and so the possibilities are endless. Our knowledgeable in-house experts will guide you through each step of the processes involved in the creation of an original bespoke piece, from designing the mount to supplying a selection of loose stones for you to choose from and of course all within your financial range.
It is always exciting creating any bespoke piece, as it is a chance to create something unique and special for a customer. The challenge is that every piece is different. Each bespoke commission is unique and often very personal to the customer, usually created to mark a significant moment in a customer’s life, such as a milestone, engagement, or anniversary. Thus, striking the perfect balance between what is practical, and the customer’s vision is most crucial. From the tiny bespoke gold ring that we were asked to make in the form of a mouse, to “For the Love of God”, the diamond skull commissioned from us by Damien Hirst, the possibilities are endless.
With high-profile clients over the years, how do you see celebrity culture influencing the demand for fine jewellery? Are there any trends you’re seeing that reflect this influence?
I would argue that celebrity-culture does not necessarily drive the demand for fine jewellery, but it dictates the type and style of fine jewellery made. Celebrity-culture undoubtedly makes certain styles more aspirational, leading to shifts in what is considered fashionable or desirable at a given time. For instance, we are seeing an increase in personalisation, in a world where mass production is the norm, the desire for bespoke pieces with personal touches to the wearer, such as their birthstone, has increased considerably.
That being said, the demand for fine jewellery remains rooted in the more traditional factors, such as personal preference, and the timeless appeal of high-quality craftsmanship.
Many Bentley & Skinner pieces are passed down through generations. What advice do you have for clients looking to invest in jewellery that can become a family heirloom?
The essence of a family heirloom is not necessarily tied in with value. It is the bonds of family which create the importance of the piece, encompassing many things; the remembrance of family members long since passed, the shared values that unite a family and the desire to create long lasting memories that are invoked when you look upon the heirloom.
If you are looking to create your own family heirloom, I would recommend the following:
a. Prize quality more than anything else. This is a piece that is to go from generation to generation, thus the piece must be crafted in a way that can withstand the test of time. If a piece is made of fine sturdy material such as gold, and crafted by an expert, then there will be no question of the piece surviving many years and being treasured by the family for generations to come.
b. Style. A timeless style will ensure the piece will be appreciated by the generations. Avoid the trends of social media and look for the classical pieces. A signet ring, for instance, is a piece of jewellery which has stood the test of time, worn by both men and women, and indicative of one’s family history.
For someone new to the world of luxury jewellery, what would your advice be when selecting a statement piece or an investment piece that’s both beautiful and valuable?
As they say, beauty is in the eye of the beholder! What a person defines as beautiful is really subjective to that individual, and so any piece you are considering buying should be something you genuinely love and feel a connection with. Whilst making a prudent financial investment is important, jewellery is a personal expression and is meant to be enjoyed. If you feel confident and enjoy wearing it, it is equally significant as its financial worth.
That said, when considering the investment value of jewellery, several key factors come into play: materials, rarity, and prevailing market trends.
The materials used in the piece very much dictate their value. Gold, whether yellow, white, or rose, and platinum have historically retained their value over time, making them a reliable investment. High quality, untreated and most importantly natural gemstones – particularly diamonds, rubies, sapphires, and emeralds are always highly sought after. Additionally, gemstones that are rare or originate from regions known for producing exceptional quality stones, such as Kashmir sapphires, Colombian emeralds and Burmese rubies commanding exceptional prices.
Rarity can also encompass distinct aspects of what makes a piece valuable. Antique pieces from renowned houses such as Cartier, Tiffany & Co and Van Cleef & Arpels are highly sort after; with original antique pieces fetching record prices at auction. This is due to the customary practice amongst jewellers to reuse and recycle jewellery, to keep up with the changing tastes of the time. Thus, finding an original antique piece is rare.
Finally, when choosing a piece, it is important to consider the ever-changing mistress that is fashion! What is considered fashionable today may, in the future, be seen as a5. mere chapter in the history of style. Therefore, researching and tracking what endures – what remains a constant despite societies fickle attitudes towards fashion – can be immensely helping in selecting a piece.
Jewellery often carries significant emotional meaning. Can you share a story about a piece that has meant something deeply personal to a client or one that holds special significance for you?
I am sorry to disappoint however I believe some stories are best left behind the velvet curtain! The personal connections we build with each piece are as unique as the individuals themselves, and I prefer to let those stories remain a little more… private!
The evening at Bentley & Skinner felt like stepping beyond the bounds of time — a fusion of British elegance, Russian depth, and a universal love for beauty. Amid the sparkle of diamonds and the melodies of Russian romances, the air was filled with history, art, and exquisite craftsmanship.
